Colourful Characters: the Cordings Trouser Collection
The famous trouser rail at Cordings boasts almost all the colours of the spectrum. In more chivalrous times Lords would be preceded by their heralds proudly displaying their standards. In modern times our cords have been adopted by some equally colourful characters. Barristers and Baronets, Lords and Lairds, Royalty and Rockstars set off their understated tweeds with a dash of colour. The inspiration for our colours comes from the furrows of a ploughed field, the stipple of a freshly landed brown trout or the purple hues of a Scottish moor and of course a pheasant’s feathered finery. Moleskins, corduroy or chinos; the modern gentleman has a rich palette at his disposal for town or country. The task then is to choose the accessories; a pair of coloured socks, a waistcoat, a lambswool jumper and of course
a Tattersall shirt.
Cordings are synonymous with traditional trousers, made from classic British cloths, from moleskin to needlecord. Our trousers are built to last a lifetime and we work with long standing mills to bring you the best off the peg selection of traditional trouserings around. So what is the difference between needlecord and cord, and when are moleskins the right choice?
Allegedly named after its association with the French royal family (Cor Du Roy) the cloth has become synonymous with country clothing.
Corduroy is woven as a loop pile cloth, with stripes of loops running down the length (warp) of the cloth on the loom. The loops are then finely cut, and the cloth is subjected to a process that raises up the pile to create thin stripes of velvet. The thickness of the individual stripe determines whether the cloth is cord, needlecord or baby cord, and the number of stripes per inch determine what the ‘wale’ of the cloth is. For example Cordings cord is 7 wale, meaning there are 7 stripes per inch. Cordings corduroy is a robust, relatively heavy 14oz cloth, which is a traditional British weight, creating a sturdy trouser that holds its shape, rather than becoming baggy. The cloth is woven in what is known as griege (a neutral colour) and then dyed once it has been woven. This process is known as piece dying. This creates a completely even colour across the garment, as oppose to garment dying where the trouser is made up and then dyed (creating a more casual look).
We are renown for our large selection of colours, from navy and olive through to brighter purples and gold. It is a common misconception that navy is the traditional colour for cords, archive cloth from Brisbane Moss in Lancashire shows that strong bright colours have always been in demand, as they fit so well with tweeds and tartans. Corduroy is the perfect winter cloth, its summer partner is of course needlecord. The Cordings cord has side adjusters rather than belt loops and internal buttons for braces.
Woven in exactly the same way as cord, the main difference is the stripes are finer and the number of wales per inch is 11 on a needlecord creating a finer lighter 12oz cloth. Our needlecords come with belt loops, and look very smart teamed with a polo belt. Again Cordings are renowned for our large colour selection in this fabric, with lighter brighter colours available during the warmer months.
Another pile cloth, named after the soft feel of a moles fur, moleskin was originally created during the industrial revolution as a workwear cloth, specifically in forges where hot molten metal would run off the cloth. Like all three of our pile cloths, the trouser has to be carefully made so that the pile direction is the same on both legs (this can be checked by running a hand over the cloth, if it is smooth it is known as ‘closed’)as the cloth looks a different colour when turned upside down. In some ways this is the sister cloth to Corduroy, perfect throughout the winter, it is a similar weight at 15oz, and has the same robust feel. Cordings are one of the only companies left in the UK still providing this traditional heavier weight cloth, which not only creates a smarter finish, but also has such good longevity that we have customers still wearing their moleskins from 30 years ago!
A lighter twill cloth, the sister cloth to the drill, it is made using a slighter finer ‘count’ of yarn, in a more subtle twill construction. Weighing in at 10oz it is our lightest trousering, but still has a solid dependable feel that is the hallmark of the Cordings range. This is the cornerstone of the summer weight collection, and is available in a myriad of bright colours, as well as perennial favourites, navy and stone.
Drill cloth is a twill construction, woven in a sturdy cotton. Again this is a traditional workwear cloth, Cordings use a specific drill which has a British Standard, ensuring it meets specific criteria in weight, construction and performance. This trouser is the perfect mid season weight, at 12oz, it is lighter than the cords, but has a robust crisp feel and retains its shape well. Teamed with a blazer, it is the ideal trouser for those smarter ‘off duty’ occasions.
Originally a military fabric, used for breeches and jodhpurs, cavalry twills distinctive steep twill, with two side by side tram lines is another historic British cloth. This can be woven in cotton or wool, Cordings cavalry twill is a Yorkshire worsted 16oz cloth, a perfect winter weight trouser, and again is often worn with a blazer.